The chassis is integral with the glazing, according to a common option at Jouef at the time (see UIC cars). The first thing to do, since the windows will be replaced, is to remove them.
Note: I used a diamond disc, which is not ideal because it causes a heating that melts the plastic, even at low speed. A toothed saw disc would have been better.
I leave a height of about 6 mm to maintain a certain rigidity. The cut is not very regular. It must be equalized because the preserved height is important: it will determine the location of the chassis positioning wedges inside the body.
The only ones already present must be levelled off: they are very coarse and it will be necessary to make others for all the doors, the large ones and those of the conductor’s compartment.
The sides of the chassis are milled to receive the uprights of the future steps. The dimensions are given in the appendix (PDF).
The “conductor” steps will be fixed on the bogie.
Regarding the large steps on the bogie side, I design a mobile system that requires ø 0.6 mm holes in the thickness of the sides (marks a).
This moulding, invisible in situation, is not a problem in itself, but I want to place a DIL switch to control future lights. To embed the latter, it is necessary to remove this moulding which is therefore milled. ø 0.8 holes are drilled for the passage of the DIL switch pins.
As I intend to put the intercommunications back, I must also mill the buffer beams, 1 mm over the entire height (a thickness of about 0.4 mm will remain, which is likely not to resist!), then 2.5 mm, 1 mm depth, 15 mm width on the top of the chassis.
Notice the shims between the machining support and the chassis, with a total thickness of 12 mm, to prevent the underbody boxes from touching the support, which will be described later.
Some buffer bodies were broken. On the other hand, replacement buffers are got back from Trix PBA cars. Indeed, these cars are delivered with buffers a little longer (as well as not compressed bellows) to equip an end car. These buffers are fool-proofed: their tenon has a diameter of 1.5 mm on one side, and 2 mm on the other.
I drill the buffer bodies at 2.5 mm and I insert pieces of ø 2,4 mm Evergreen tube. Once glued, I ream them to the desired diameter, either 1.5 mm or 2 mm depending on the side.
The chosen drawbars are large Makette model (KKK1); the Roco are too thick and cannot be inserted between chassis and bogie. The front mounting holes are too close to the buffer beam, which, I recall, has been milled and therefore weakened. So I use the rear holes. I use miniature self-tapping 1.4 mm P-tite screws. The pilot holes are drilled at ø 1.0 mm.
To give the chassis a three point suspension, we must first give a little more clearance to the pivots. This is achieved by shortening the pivot relief by the top, and flaring it with a 90° milling bit.
On one end, 2.2 mm thick shims (obtained by superimposing two plastic layers respectively 1.5 and 0.7 mm thick) are glued on both sides of the pivot axis, at 10 mm from it. See the picture below.
On the other end, the bogie will receive a 1 mm spacer around its pivot. So, the total height of the car, which was initially insufficient (44.3 instead of 45.3 — with wheels of suitable diameter), will be corrected.
As already said, I had refined the bogies a long time ago. It remains to cut the old loop coupling flush to the load beam, and to mill a semi-cylindrical housing to avoid interaction with the drawbar spring.
It is also necessary to move the brake blocks to place them facing the wheels. For this, they are cut flush, drilled at ø 1, and joined by a bar represented by a round polystyrene stick. This bar is fixed in a milled groove in the old drawbar at the front, and in a new part attached to the back. It is not realistic, but it will not be seen very much.
Bogie masked before painting
P-tite 1.4 × 5 screw, black steel
0.15 € each — price 2016