The lighting installation is rather delicate, for two reasons:

To simplify things a little, I have classified the coaches into three categories according to their specificities:

For each category, I have studied a different printed circuit: wire arrival, position of the anti-flicker capacitors, etc.

Bogie preparation

Usually, when there are brass bearings, I solder wires on them, with always a risk that the tin will flow either inside (it’s not catastrophic, just digging with a conical cutter), or outside, which is more annoying, because the bearing might no longer fit in its housing.

I thought of simply wedging the wire between the bearing and its housing. Questions: can the bearing be put back in place? Won’t the bearing go crooked, braking the axle tips and defeating the purpose of the bearing, which is to pick the current without increasing friction?

Let’s say it straight away: the answers are all positive, with one nuance: the distance between the axle tips will have to be slightly reduced, as the bogies don’t run very well anyway due to the lack of clearance of the wheel sets.

I tried two methods, depending on where to start wiring. In both cases the bearings have to be removed. They are strongly glued in their housing, perhaps to avoid the frequent escape in older models. So you have to push them from behind, sometimes quite abruptly, by lifting the axle box a little, simply recessed (not glued). This is what a bearing looks like, with a layer of glue (or paint?) that must be removed if the bearing is to be put back in place without difficulty.

Bearing with its layer of glue or paint

The best way to get rid of it is to soak it in acetone for a long enough time, say at least one hour. Any residue should be brushed off:

Bearing with its acetone-attacked glue layer

First method: wiring starting on a bearing

A strand of 0.15 mm flexible wire is formed by bending it 90° by 1 mm. As the wire is held on my mat by some kind of weight, I position the bogie under the wire.

Laying the wire in the bogie

Click on the image to see the detail.

I put the bearing back. I push it in with a small screwdriver flat blade. Be careful, it happened that some of them no longer hold in their housing. If so, put a small drop of CA glue.

Fitting a bearing in the bogie

Click on the image to see the detail.

The wire is shaped…

Wire shaping and routing

Click on the image to see the detail.

… then soldered on a piece of copper tape previously stuck.

Soldering of the wire in the middle of the bogie

Once the four wires are in place, I secure them with a little CA glue into the bogie grooves.

Second method: wiring from the middle of the bogie

I start by soldering the bare wire to the copper tape.

Soldering the wire in the middle of the bogie

Then, shaping and routing of the wire to the axle box. This is in my opinion more difficult than in the previous method.

Routing the wire to the bearing

Bending the wire in the housing, after having suitably shortened it.

Positioning of the wire in the bearing housing

Reinstall the bearing, again using a flat-blade screwdriver.

Fitting the bearing

I’m not sure that this method saves time. Advantage: the final appearance is cleaner (fewer solders); disadvantage: you have to redo everything if a wire breaks at the last moment at the bearing’s level, and it did happen…

The rest, common to both methods

Flexible wires are soldered. In this case (this is a B5D), they run to the ends, where the toilet is located.

Soldering the flexible wires