The buffers are composed of a body and a plate equipped with a rod (the plunger).

The mark 4 shows the wagon buffer beam.

Depending on the case and availability, these items will be made of brass or nickel silver. For each wagon, I give you the approximate dimensions of the buffers.

Exploded view of a buffer

  1. Plate
  2. Rod
  3. Body

Buffers for Res and Rloos wagons

Buffer dimensions for Res and Rloos

The plate is obtained from a brass screw shaped on a mini drill. Then the top and bottom flats are made with a diamond disk. Finally, the corners are rounded with fine abrasive paper. The rod is a brass tube with diameters 1.5 × 1.1. The body is a brass tube with diameters 2.5 × 1.6. These values ​​allow the rod to slide into the body, allowing making spring buffers. But I quickly abandoned the idea.

Buffers for Habiss

The plate is obtained from a 0.3 mm thick nickel silver photo-etching cutout roughly cut and then adjusted with the file or a diamond disk (the last operation is to be done preferably after soldering it on the rod). The corners are rounded with a file and then with fine abrasive paper. The rod is a brass tube with diameters 1.3 × 0.9. The body is a brass tube with diameters of 2.0 × 1.4.

Buffer dimensions for Habiss

To facilitate centring and consolidate the soldering of the plate on the rod, the plate is 0.8 mm drilled in the middle and a short section of nickel silver round of the same diameter is inserted there. The assembly is slid into the rod, then the whole is soldered with flux and, if possible, silver solder, a little harder than that the leaded one.

Finally, the ø 0.8 rod portion that protrudes from the plate is flush with a file, and the plate dimensions are adjusted as indicated above.

An excess metal at the mouth of the body is obtained when cutting the brass tube placed in the mandrel of a drill (at low speed): by pressing hard enough with a cutter, the metal is repelled and this sympathetic flange is obtained although somewhat random…

Buffers for Iaehss

The plate is obtained from a buffer purchased at micro-modele (former Magic Train) turned on a mini drill. As for the Habiss, the rod is a brass tube of outside diameter 1.3, and the body is a brass tube with diameters 2.0 × 1.4.

Buffer dimensions for Iaehss

A flange is obtained in the same way as previously.

Before assembling, brown the plates and paint the bodies in the shade of the chassis. It is now necessary to remove all or part of the old plastic buffers and to drill to the desired diameter, 2 or 2.5 mm, depending on the case. The new buffers will be glued with superglue or Kristal Klear, the latter allowing for easier readjustment.


The steps are photo-etched parts by Haxo Models, ref. HM 44049. This reference proposes sixteen pieces, half in width 3 mm, half in 4 mm. The 3 mm steps are suitable for Gas and Res wagons; those of 4 mm for the Rloos and Iaehss (the Habiss has steps of a specific type). Something bothers me in these steps: their support does not extend under the step, which gives them a too flat aspect.

The mounting straps have a half-etching imitating the actual bolt heads. For more realism, I will drill them to ø 0.4 and solder a 0.3 mm nickel silver wire to them. This wire will serve as both decor and fixing reinforcement: it will be introduced in a hole drilled in the wagon body. I first provided two wires for fixing, since there are two bolts, but I quickly found that it is difficult to vertically align two holes so close together. So, one will only serve as a decor and will be flush backside.

The steps, still on their cluster, are successively cleaned with fine grain abrasive paper, burnished to tarnish their appearance (they are made of brass), rinsed. The powdery layer which is formed is carefully wiped off. The cluster is then stuck with thin double-sided adhesive on a plywood martyr for drilling.

Since the soldering has to be done at the back, the cluster is peeled off, turned over and then stuck again. The legs are pickled with a fibreglass pen, two pieces of wire are positioned in the holes and slightly depressed to protrude on the other side. A little flux, very little tin, and it’s done. The wires are then cut to approximately length, and then we start again for the next step.

When all the wires are soldered, the different parts may be separated and the wires may be cut. One must be 2 to 3 mm for fixing; the other should be flush backside. Both should be cut very short at the front, and adjusted with a file to simulate the bolt heads.

Soldering wires on steps

Rear view of steps

Front view of steps

TC M4 brass screw to have
a sufficient head diameter

Curved buffers
Ref. LU-Tamp-Bo
€1.61 per 4
at micro-modele