Printed circuit boards

Here is the list of printed circuits to be provided:

As always, I wish to maintain the independence between chassis and body, in order not to risk tearing out the wires during a disassembly. Exception: in the motor car, there is an electrical connection between the chassis and the cab, which is more or less attached to the body. But a removable connector is provided, and the cab may be glued to the chassis; it is only necessary to pay attention to the introduction of the frontal lantern light guide during an assembly.

Wiring diagrams and PCBs

After a careful plotting of the dimensions, by direct measurements and photographs: pitch of compartments, distance between the lanterns and between the fixing points, etc., I made a PCB blank test on paper; this test allowed me to notice that one of the ligth strips was too short and cantilevered. Here I give you the result of my cogitations (diagram and printed circuit). The circuit is theoretically to scale, but the printer may slightly change the dimensions, which would not be dramatic here. You will be able to check the printed result thanks to the circuit dimensioning.

The resistor values are to be adapted to the available LEDs, and to your tastes as to the lighting intensity. Personally, I am rather a supporter of discretion.

You will find further the references of the components used.

Lighting strips

A detail to note: the lighting of the motor car requires two LEDs less than the trailer, but, for the other six, the circuit is exactly the same: it is therefore possible to etch the trailer circuit twice, and not mount two of the LEDs for the motor car, or even cut the useless part, which could hinder the decoder installation.

Setting the lighting strips

Since the strips are narrower than the original ones, supports must be prepared. These are made in 0.5 mm thick Evergreen, in the form of rectangles whose width is that of the interior fitting notches.

For the trailer, given the great flexibility of the interior fitting, it is better to glue the strip at only one end, to leave all the necessary backlash.

Light strip support

Motor car lantern LEDs

The lanterns LEDs are embedded into the cab. Therefore, due to the very narrow space, it is not possible to wire them with a conventional insulated wire, even very thin. I therefore choose ø 0.1 varnished wire, already used for the lights of my 63888 Roco.

Each LED is equipped with three wires: one common positive, one for white light and one for red light. These six wires in total are connected to the board installed into the cab (next picture).

Lanterns LEDs

Click the image to have a closer view of the LED.

Cab board

This circuit board includes the lanterns LED resistors, plus an LED circuit for the upper front light, for which I found more practical to keep the light guide. This LED is reversed, i.e. the light-emitting part is oriented towards the epoxy plate, drilled at this point for the light to pass through. Why this apparent complication? This is to keep the copper side accessible, so as to facilitate connections with the LEDs and decoder. Attention: a PLCC LED is not suitable for this arrangement.

Front lights circuit

Intervention on the original printed circuit board

The purpose of this intervention is to connect the decoder to all circuits: lanterns, lighting. I remind that originally only the front lights were controlled. There is no modification on the circuit itself, only the lamps are removed, and several wires connected. Note that for the wires, I follow the NEM / NMRA color conventions.

Modification of the main circuit

From left to right, we find:

  1. The 2.54 mm pitch connector that connects to the cab board. Its three wires are soldered to the old bulb places;
  2. The red and black wires soldered to the pads receiving the front bogie wires. They will be connected to the rear bogie;
  1. The yellow, green, white and blue wires soldered respectively to terminals 2, 3, 6 and 7 of the decoder socket - detail opposite;
  2. 0.2 mm thick brass wire guides held by the board fastening screws, to prevent the wires from rubbing on the flywheel — yes, a piece of adhesive tape could have done the job!

Zoom on the NEM plug

  1. Completely to the right, the blue, green, yellow and white wires end up on pads made of self-adhesive copper tape. It is not mandatory: ​​the wires could continue in one piece to the rear to be connected to the electrical coupling.

Wiring of the motor car

Wiring of the motor car

As already seen, the wires leading to the rear run through grooves milled into the chassis. They are held in strands with pieces of heat-shrink tubing stuck to the chassis bottom with thick double-sided adhesive. Thus, if necessary, a wire can be easily changed.

Rear wiring of the motor car

The red and black wires are connected respectively to the black and brown wires of the rear bogie pickups. The soldering is protected by heat-shrink tubing actually shrunk. The other wires pass under a chassis rib, then are glued (Kristal Klear) to the drawbar (gluing to be done only after soldering the wires on the coupler). A priori, there is no risk of hanging either with the transmission or with the drawbar itself.